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Also because of the steep and impervious areas in which this plant is
cultivated, and of the danger of dispersion of the crop, the picking
is done totally by hand, directly from the tree, and, in some cases, by
laying canvas under the trees with considerable use of costly manpower.
A game of patient hands smeared by plenty of resin from the branches, a
feast and a toil eagerly awaited, to which all the family participates,
included women and children.
After the picking the fruit, by mechanical rubbing, is"sgrollato" (separated
fromits leathery cover)
and dried for 3-4 days in the
sun, in large open spaces prepared in front of the farm-houses.
This way is obtained the pistachio in its shell, locally called Tignosella,
kept by the producers, before selling it, in dark
and dry rooms.
After two years of work and of spending a lot of money the producer's toil is
finished.
But because of a too low price or of a scarce crop, often it
is not possible to recover the relevant cost of financial and physic
energies. The last year (2000), for instance, for the adverse climatic conditions, 60% of the crop was lost.
The shelling of the pistachio seed is done mechanically
by the cooperatives or the local merchants to whom the product is sold or
conferred.
Up to some past decades the shelling was still done manually in
the producers houses: with infinite patience and a rudimentary technique
consisting in a block of lava rock, emptied inside, ("u sciffu"),
on the edges of which the pistachios, one by one, were hit and
broken with hammers or stones.
Today the biennale work of the producers stops with the "tignosella"
(the unshelled pistachio): for the shelling and peeling the
fruit is brought to centers of collections or sold directly to
exporters.
Such processing is required by importing countries and confectionery and canning industries.
In fact, just because of its bright green color (a true trademark), the
brontese pistachio is commercialized nearly exclusively as "peeled".
The peeling, removal of
the thin purple-reddish pellicle is done by a highly technologic
process which exposes the fruit to a brief jet of high pressure
steam that causes the separation of the skin.
A following passage to the peeling machine by rubbing of the
rollers at differentiated speed removes the pellicle.
The
green pistachios then go through a complex drying
process at low speed and from this to an electronic selecting
machine that rejects eventual pistachio bits of not the right color.
The product now dry (with a humidity of 4-5%) is wrapped up in cartons
of 12,5 Kg..
The processing cycle is now concluded.
In ambient fresh and dry the product preserves its color for several
months, and then starts fading.
That is why the Cooperatives and the exporters peel their pistachios
only to order and don't keep stock of "peeled pistachio" as
this, before being peeled, can be kept in cold store for over a year
without loosing any of its peculiarities.
Two years of hard work and long wait have gone by, but the result is the
precious pistachio of Bronte, emerald green in color and rich of
unmistakable, perceptible qualities.
The intense green color of the
cotyledons,
the elongated shape, the
aromatic taste and the high content of unsaturated fat acids
of the fruit, are not easily found in the product of other areas.
That determines a net preference towards product of American or Asian
origin that presents, for the great part, roundish and yellow seeds, or
not completely green and often yellowish, due to diverse climatic
conditions, even if its price is always lower respect to the
brontese product.
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Everybody in
Bronte, in alternate years, waits anxiously for the month of
September to reap the fruit of a long and hard work.
The harvest
lasts about a month. And during these thirty days the Corso
Umberto (“a chiazza”) becomes literally a desert;
everybody, young and old, students and clerks, women and
children, ignoring the stifling heat, are in the “lochi” to
shake the branches and pick up the precious fruit, to remove the
husk from it and let it dry up in the sun.
At this time Bronte’s
stony fields come alive with people waking up from a long sleep,
and becoming joyful and happy, singing and seatng at impressive
spreads. |
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