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Lava grottos of Simeto

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LAVA GROTTOS OF SIMETO  THE CALANNA ROCK  TO ETNA FEET  BRONTE'S FORESTS  "U PAGGHIARU"  THE SCIARA  THE ETNA
 

Nature in all its splendor

Lava grottos of Simeto

"U Bazu 'a Càntira"

The integral nature reserve of the "Forre laviche del Simeto" (Simeto lava gorges) is a Site of Community Interest (identified with the code ITA070026), established in 2000 by the Ministry of the Environment with the aim of safeguarding and conserving natural and semi-natural habitats, as well as wild flora and fauna of the upper Simeto basin.

It falls on the western slope of Etna where the river, in the junction area between the southern slope of the Nèbrodi mountains and the Vulcano, at the foot of Bronte, has dug and eroded millenary lava flows forming, in the river stretch between the two bridges of Càntera and of Serravalle and the Saracen Bridge in Adrano, suggestive gorges and narrow ravines that constitute places that have never undergone interaction or modification by the hand of man, undoubtedly of significant environmental and landscape interest.

The protected area, also implemented in 2005 by the Sicilian Region which approved the maps, extends into the munici­palities of Bronte, Adrano and, partially, Centuripe and Ran­dazzo, therefore affecting the two provinces of Catania and Enna.

It has a territory of 1,217 hectares, of which 285 are in the maximum protection zone. The midpoint is located in the Bronte area north of Contra­da Pietrerosse, in front of the Marotta and Barbaro districts.

It concerns a strip of territory of particular interest and geolo­gical-environmental value both for its morphologies and ecosystems and for the microclimates that have stabilized there.

It protects the entire stretch of the Alto Simeto, in which the most ancient Etna lavas, reaching the old course of the river, have crossed it several times and have then been dug and eroded by it with deep incisions, splendid gorges, caves, bends, waterfalls and lakes, which - set in the black basalt and the surrounding environment - create landscapes of rare beauty and charm. The management of the reserve has been entrusted to the State Forestry Company of Sicily.


Bronte' zone represents

Bronte' zone represents the initial tract of the river, and surely, the wildest, where the waters play games of skill and acrobatics with the black lava, while the observer can look astonished at the power that this river, in spite of the enor­mous damages that our inexhaustible greed has inflicted to its life, continues to display.

The morphologic, paleontologic, biologic and aesthetic characte­ristics of the area retain, nearly unaltered, their natural charm, lit up and re-invigorated by par­ti­cular fauna and flora compo­nents and by the constant presence, on the horizon, of the snowy cone of Etna.

Ponte Serravalle, china di Mario Schiliro'In particular, the nature reserve is characterized by the typical appearance of the Simeto, with a large alluvial mattress of debris coming mainly from the Nebrodi, from the lava gorges very similar to the famous Alcantara gorges and from the high lava walls that wind to the left of the river for over five kilometres, with columnar basalt formations, jumps, rapids and waterfalls, lakes and white foam waters.

The gorges have walls of variable height and width: the height varies between 10 and over 50 metres, the width between 5 and 20 meters of distance between the erosion banks.

They are covered, especially in the spring season, by vegetation typical of the so-called Mediterranean scrub such as wild olive, holm oak, hackberry, prickly pear plants, capable of surviving the floods and heat of summer, but also the winter frost, hosting very rare fauna.

Under the Cantera bridge and the Norman bridge of Serravalle district (on the right in an ink drawing by Mario Schilirò), the Simeto and the Troina meet high basaltic lava walls, they go over them with a sequel of jumps, rapids  and water games, penetrating first with a very narrow duct  and a millpond of a few square meters, but mounted between high basaltic walls, to join together, further down, in an uncontaminated scenery.


Other important historic testimonies

Some important historical testimonies are part of the area affected by the reserve.
In addition to the two bridges over the Simeto and the Troina, we mention the Arab paper mill of Ricchisgia, the ancient Casale di Placa Baiana, a Sicilian farmhouse with an adjoining water mill located at river level, built in the mid-1800s a few steps from the bridge over the Troina by Baron Francesco Serra­valle, once owner of the lands in this part of the Placa, and a small rural church which, even today, offer glimpses of past life and bucolic panoramas.

The small  church of Serravalle, dedicated to San Francesco di Paola, characte­rized by a singular tricuspid tympanum and three pointed arches drawn into the wall, was built in 1850; today, abandoned, it is used as an agricultural warehouse.

The Càntera bridge under which the Forre begins is of Norman origin: it was built by Count Ruggiero II "the Norman" in 1121 in memory of his mother Adelasia, who died in Patti in 1118.

The ancient important road passed there which, protected by the castles of Bolo and Torremuzza, connected the hinterland of Sicily (the Norman capital Troina, Cesarò, Nicosia) to the eastern coast of Sicily.

Traveling along this road today by car (it is provincial road 17iii), the bridge and the ravines below are barely visible and almost imperceptible; you have to stop and look out from the high parapets to admire the incredible hidden scenery.

Continuing on the road in front of the ancient farmhouse which climbs up Mount Reitano ('a Praca, 1,080 m.), a breathtaking panorama opens up of the great valley of Etna and Bronte, from Maletto to Adrano and down to the Forre del Simeto.


The lava ravine is a very deep cut

The lava ravine is a very deep cut, dug  during millenniums  by the Simeto river between the lava of Etna and the sedimentary ground of the mounts of Bronte's valley. Offers a mini-environment  unique, harsh and wild, but also very suggestive and uncontaminated.

The photographs on this page only partially illustrate the beauty of the places and the majesty of this still almost untouched site; in the video below on the right ("Let's go inside the gorges") our camera entered the gorges better, showing them in all their majesty even from above.

The lava of ancient eruptions that filled the  original bed of the river, has been, in millennia, eroded and deeply dug down in a profound ravine, very narrow and with nearly vertical smooth lava walls.
From the two bridges Cantera and Serravalle, put in the homonymous areas,  close to Bronte and easily to drive to, is possible to see the erosion's initial part.

It is a cliff and a wild ravine, called by the folks of Bronte "u bazu ‘a cantira" (the  leap of the  Cantera), where, under the bridges of  Cantera and Serravalle, the Simeto and Troina rivers fall foaming   over the lava over the sandstone blocks.


The Norman bridge

The Norman bridge across the river, a very daring piece of work composed by hydro­dynamic piers that hold medieval arcades of a humpbacked bridge, is characterized by the use of local basaltic stones, alternating to ashlars of white tuff, with a chro­matic effect truly particular.

The ancient important communication route passed over the bridge which, protected by the castles of Bolo and Torremuzza, linked the hinterland of Sicily (the Norman capital Troina, Cesarò, Nicosia) to the eastern coast of Sicily (Catania, Messina). Several times the bridge was destroyed by the fury of the Troina river; the last renovation dates back to 1899 as engraved on the capstone of the western arch.

Then, on 15 September 1948, a violent storm caused the river level to rise by about ten metres, which flooded the ancient Sicilian baglio and ruined the bridge, depriving it of its original parapets and making it impassable. And since then it has remained so, degrading itself more and more amidst general indifference.

The oldest image is a drawing made in 1842 by the famous German geologist and astronomer Wolfgang Sartorius of Waltershausen entitled "View of Etna taken from the Serravalle Bridge near Bronte". Today it is in a state of total abandonment, degradation and even extreme danger.

Under the bridge, a crack steep and impracticable, initially few meters wide and deep, between eighty and one  hundred meters high, squeezed between colored basalt walls, enlarges then, for kilometers, luxuriant of vegetation and animal life, among majestic basalt walls.

The photographs on the page only partially convey the beauty of the places and the majesty of a site that is still almost untouched; in the video on the right our camera enters the gorges showing them to you in all their majesty.


Going down along the river

Going down along the river, in se­ve­ral points, are parti­cu­la­rly intere­sting the for­ma­tions of po­ly­go­nal lava,  or ba­salt colon­na­de, due to the sud­den cooling of the lava flow in con­tact to the Simeto waters, the ample lava terraces that testify the expansion of the volcanic edifice over the territo­ries occupied before by se­di­men­tary outcrop  and the ty­pi­cal vegetation that assu­mes par­ti­cu­lar featu­res with the Oleander pre­sence, the bush euphorbia, able to grow and branch out over the lava.

Over the river gravel bank can be found the inundations  consti­tu­ted both by pebbles of lava, of various color, and by sands, gravel and pebbles of sedimentary origin coming down exactly from the Nebrodi.

It is not rare to find amber' peb­bles and shells, light-colored  that always attract the searchers and that tell us of a far geologic past. The large stony riverbed is often occupied by typical river bank vegetation: canes and oleanders that in spring assume a magnifi­cent blooming.

The agricultural landscape is typical of Bronte, with old zones often subjected to floods, chan­ged in  fruit orchards, with the very stony ground where the Bronte's farmer has planted vast Pistachio cultiva­tions, and, in some spots, occupied by grazing land steep and degraded, that among the grass cover, the clayey soil characteristics, with large groves, narrow and deep and with steep ridges towards the tops.

Around a contrasted landscape and a deeply varied nature, aized tree cultiva­tions that go from the fruit orchards (pears, peaches, etc.) to the clayey pa­stures alternating with steep lava fields cultivated to pistachio, citrus fruit orchards, olive or almon­d trees, vegeta­bles, prickly pears, wheat and cereal fields.

The fauna component of this ecosystem comprises some reptiles (The collar snake, the viper snake, the leopard snake, maybe the best looking European snake long up to one meter), the lizards (Ramarro, Lacerta viridis o la Podarcis sicula) that hide among the vegetation or among stones and rocks, some amphibious rare species (the Disco­glosso), some frogs and toads that live near the river (Bufo bufo spinosus and Bufo viridis) Rare and nearly absolutely absent the fish fauna.

The birds population comprises several species sedentary and others migratory: it is not rare to see the ash heron or the egret (Ardea cinerea), they make here a brief stop on their way to zones richer of their preferred foods.

In the vegetation near the river can be found birds (the Porciglione) less adapt to fly and they find a typical hiding among the canes, some species of birds of prey as the Hawk, the Kestrel and others. It is not difficult to see and meet the Barn Owl, while in the areas planted with more trees are more frequent other species of Owl.

The mammals appear as roaming, coming, in the  majority, from close by areas:  the Fox, the Porcupine, the Curly, the wild Rabbit and the Hare.

The protected zone of the grottoes is still  an uncontaminated natural habitat.

The wild nature of the site, the evident difficulty and the dangerousness to build in it, have, till now, preserved and saved from any speculation this wonderful area. It is at a few kilometers from Bronte and starts at the bridges of Cantera and Serravalle. With due precaution can be visited.

Especially in Summer, you can get to the small natural habitat going down on foot along the gravel bank and go on, even with some difficulty, to the bridge of Passo Paglia district.

 

   

Let's go inside the Gorges

The natural wonders of the thousand-year-old Simeto lava gorges. A journey to discover a hidden paradise, a protected, uncontaminated, varied and contrasted area, a little-known treasure with nature exploding in all its forms, absolutely to be enhanced and preserved from neglect and progressive degradation.

Other pearls of our territory: Piano dei Grilli, Rocca Calanna, Petrarussa

The place

Il Ponte normanno visto dal basso (Foto V. Saitta)

BRONTE, CHIESA DI S. FRANCESCO O DELLA PLACA DI SERRAVALLEThe Simeto lava gorges begin at the foot of Bronte in the Bolo Fiorentino and Cantera-Serravalle districts (see location map). In the first photo on the left, the deep incision dug by Simeto over the centuries is clearly visible, identifying the border between the volcanic boulders of the thousand-year-old lava flows of Etna and the sedimentary ones of the Nebrodi.

The area which had been identified by the Sicilian Region as an Integral Natural Reserve with D. A. 578 of 22.4.1989, falls within the regional plan of parks and natural reserves, established by regional laws n. 98 of 6 May 1981 and n. 14 of 9 August 1988 and approved by decree of the Department of Territory and Environment of 10 June 1991.

The territory of Contrada Serravalle frames the junction of the Troina river with the Simeto (up to this point formed by the Saracena, Cutò and Martelo streams).
With its prized orchards, the high bridge built on the lava gorges next to an ancient farmhouse where the façade of the former Church of the Placa Serravalle dedicated to San Francesco di Paola stands out, the remains of an old water mill (in the photo on the right the ancient lava stone millstones) and the initial part of the erosion, is one of the most beautiful in Bronte. [View with Google Maps]

The Serravalle Bridge

The Serravalle bridge (on the right in a photo from 1880, before the reconstruction in 1899), located on the Troina river, a hundred meters before its confluence with the Simeto, takes its name from Baron Francesco Serravalle, owner of the lands of this part of Placa.
The historian Benedetto Radice writes that «to facilitate trade with Messina and other countries, in 1769 the Brontesi begged the viceroy for the construction of a bridge over the Troina river, not far from the bridge built by Ruggiero in 1121».
The aim was to avoid any danger in crossing the river by boat, especially in winter, also facilitating connections between Bronte and its numerous thriving districts of Monte Reitano ('a Praca, 1080 m.): Placa Serravalle, Bolo, Cattaino , Carbone, Placa Tornatore, Malaterra, Placa Baiana and trade with Troina and other Nèbrodi towns.

It is also very likely that the bridge pre-existed and was destroyed by the Troina river. In fact, Radice himself also writes that the «Placa bridge was rebuilt where the Troina river passes in the year 1769».

Years earlier, in 1762, the construction of another bridge over the Simeto to connect Bronte with Mount Reitano between Ricchisgia and Placa Baiana had been requested for the same reasons and purposes but it was not granted.

For several centuries, Serravalle was therefore the only access road for the people of Bronte to the Placa districts. The other bridge (the Passopaglia) was built, about 6 kilometers further down, in front of the S. Cristoforo valley, only in 1930.

Several times the bridge was destroyed by the fury of the Troina river; the last renovation dates back to 1899 as engraved on the capstone of the western arch.

Then, on 15 September 1948, a violent storm caused the river level to rise by about ten metres, which flooded the ancient Sicilian baglio and ruined the bridge, depriving it of its original parapets and making it impassable. And since then it has remained like this, degrading itself more and more amidst general indifference.

The oldest image we have of this bridge is a drawing made in 1842 by the famous German geologist and astronomer Wolfgang Sartorius of Waltershausen entitled "View of Etna taken from the Serravalle Bridge near Bronte" (copper line, 425x219 mm) which we present you together with a recent photo taken from the same angle.

Note in the drawing the original shape of the bridge with the higher and steeper road surfaces; destroyed by the fury of the Troina river, the current bridge is a remake in 1899 as engraved on the capstone of the western arch.
Note in the drawing how about two centuries ago the level of the Troina river exceeded the base of the bridge; today the river, except for the periods in which the locks of the Áncipa dam open, is almost dry and the bridge unused.
The state of extreme degradation and danger of the bridge is evident.

For the safeguard

For the safeguard, the conservation and the prote­ction of the par­ticular environmental value of the lava grottoes, of the waterfalls and the  small lakes created by the Simeto and of the typical vegeta­tion of the river's banks and also of the specialized fauna component that li­ves in the zone, there are regional safeguard  laws.

The same laws, however, have not indicated any proper identification of authority. In fact, the land­scape and natural environment con­ser­va­tion defen­se has never been applied properly.

The old Norman bridge of Serravalle, now unfit for use, besides being reduced in a  state of complete degrade is becoming a true rubbish tip, an open air  deposit of unwanted things of any kind.

Unfortunately, these places, of particular beauty and geological-environmental value due to the morphologies and ecosystems and microclimates that have stabilized there, have always been poorly considered by the various bodies in charge who have dedicated little protection to them.

Mappa dei luoghi visitati - 94,4 KbThere is a complete lack of signs indicating their presence, there are no possible paths that would allow you to visit them, there is a lack of suitable protection to safely overlook the cliffs; in short, they are incredibly fascinating and beautiful places left in complete neglect and also the subject of abandoned waste and small landfills.

The old Norman bridge in Contrada Serravalle, now unusable, as well as dangerous, is reduced to a state of complete degradation and is becoming, amidst general indifference, a real landfill: the usual uncivilized people make it a repository of rubbish and objects of every kind. type.

There is a restoration project for this historic bridge, proposed since 2002 by the Aetna North-West Rotary Club; the definitive design of the works was financed by the Region in 2004, but to date, with the exception of some surveys to acquire technical information on the building and the surrounding area, nothing has been achieved, everything seems to have been lost in the maze of bureaucracy and disinterest.

And the degradation, irreparably, continues even if mitigated by repeated cleaning operations organized by volunteers and various associations.


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